Applying Adhesive Veneer Edging

Using adhesive veneer edging can be an easy repair or essential part of project. Although purists may frown on edging, I find that it can be used imperceptibly to most people. Most veneer edging is thick enough to resist physical abuse. And it is real wood, so stains apply easily.

Applying Adhesive Edging

Adhesive veneer is typically about 1/16" thick and backed with a heat sensitive adhesive backing. Many of the usual hardwoods are sold: cherry, oak, birch, walnut, and mahogany and widths range from ¾" to wider. An iron melts the adhesive backing to adhere the edging. I like to use this small and economical iron. Just using scissors, cut a length of veneer slightly longer than the edge being covered.

Trimming Adhesive Edging

In my experience, trimming the edging can be a challenge. Depending on grain direction, tear out can occur when cutting it. I've used a router bit with a bearing for cutting flush trim cuts and still have had problems. Through trial and error I've come up with the following techniques.

On the ends, I just align a chisel against the work piece and cut the overhanging edging off.

 
When trimming the sides, the grain direction can be frustrating. For reliable results, I use the blade from my plane to cut the sides of the edging. I rest part of the blade on the side of work piece and cut the overhanging veneer at an angle. I rotate the blade clockwise and cut off a small length, then move the blade to the left and repeat the process. This scissor-like action seems to handle difficult grain direction. I usually start from the middle and work towards the end of the veneer.

After trimming the overhang, I usually run the iron at a slight angle to seal the edges to the work piece again. Then I lightly sand the edge of the veneer for a slight round over. After applying finish to the piece, its difficult to know that veneer was used.

Veneer Gaps After Dyeing

Occasionally after applying a water-base dye, the veneer may separate from the substrate. Look for this before a finish or lacquer is applied. Just use the iron to reattach the veneer. Heating a finish will destroy it, so reattach the veneer before applying the finish.

 

Holding Cabinet Doors Closed Magnetically

Holding doors closed using magnets is easy compared to mechanical latching systems or special hinges. Simply, the door is held close using a small rare-earth magnet embedded in the frame. Another magnet or metal dowel is embedded in the door. When the door is closed, magnetic attraction keeps the door closed. A gentle pull on the door will break the attraction and allow the door to open freely.

Sounds easy, but what are the details? I find that a ¼" diameter magnetic is sufficient and I simply drill a ¼" hole and insert the magnet. To ensure the face of the door is flush to the frame, the magnets should be positioned the same distance from the front of the cabinet. To hide the magic of the magnet, I apply veneer hot-melt edging over the magnet.

For this door I embedded a short metal dowel in the door. It is located just under the handle on the edge of the door and covered by veneer. The video shows the closing of the door. The narrow gaps between the door and the frame cause an air cushion that slows the closing of the door. When the metal dowel gets within the proximity of the magnet, the door is pulled close.

Finishing the Semi-Circle Table

After finishing the top, I wanted to carry the same design elements into the apron and legs. For the apron, I added a strip painted birch. I've been pleased with using Valspar in the past and the quantity of paint provided in a  sample size is more than enough for a small furniture project. I wanted to see whether I could spray it with my touch-up gun without diluting it with water and I successfully applied with using a 1.5mm nozzle.








Below the painted birch is another semi-circle of cherry which is was shaped with a bead profile. To conserve cherry, I glued a thin strip of it to plywood from a reclaimed cupboard door. Using 10 wedges, I calculated that my narrow ½" cherry scrap piece would be sufficient width to accommodate the curve and show the profile.

Similar to my previous table project, I've used reclaimed oak flooring to make the legs. After removing any nails from the wood, I glue several pieces together and use my router to cut the bead profile in the sides. I've sprayed a light brown dye stain on them, followed with shellac as a barrier coat. Finally, several coats of Polycrylic water-based finish was applied.

In order to use as much reclaimed wood as possible, I only have a thin strip of cherry on the profiled edge. Notice that the figured cherry veneer overlaps this and extends to the edge of the table.






Here is a close up picture of the ash center, cherry edging, and the oak legs.

Semi-Circle Table Using Reclaimed Wood

I've started a new table project using reclaimed materials. I've glued maple veneer to a ¾" plywood cupboard door. It's flat, cabinet-grade wood with many layers of ply, and they sold it for $1. My plan is to create a border of cherry similar to my previous night stand project. The top will be a semi-circle and my plan is to show a band of poplar painted green around the side.







In my night stand, I used biscuits to align the edge of cherry to the top. The smaller radius in this project prevents the biscuit cutter from making a deep enough cut into the cherry. Instead of that approach, I've cut a 3/16" slot into both pieces. The roller bearing on the router bit allows me to follow the curved shape. This slot allows me to insert short splines to align the top and glue the pieces together.. To curve the spline inserts, I use the router circle jig to curve the spline inserts.


Before I glue the cherry piece on, I've applied a Minwax Honey Maple Gel Stain to accentuate the grain in the ash. I do this before gluing the edge to avoid getting the stain on the cherry. I'm waiting 8 hours for it to dry before proceeding.





Surrounding the semicircle is a border using figured cherry veneer. I plan on routing a bead profile along the edge of the table so I have glued a strip of cherry to plywood and then applied the veneer over this.

Before gluing the border of cherry, I use the inside curve of the piece as a template to cut the blue masking tape. I will use this with some parchment paper to cover the ash while I stain the cherry. Using a water based dye, I spray the border red. After it dries, I use the tape to mask the border and spray the ash using an amber colored dye.

To protect the table top from the water base finish, I sprayed the top with a fine film of shellac. Finally, I sprayed a couple coats of Polycrylic.

Next, on to the apron and legs.

Final View - Table Made From 99.9% Recycled Materials

I finished my hallway table using reclaimed oak flooring for the legs and an old cabinet door for the top. To show the flake pattern that is characteristic of quarter-sawn wood, I glued three flooring strips together and routed beads on one side. The beads hide the glue joints. On the top and bottom of the glued stack, I applied a quarter-sawn white oak veneer. This veneer and some dowel pins are the only non-recycled part of the project. The pins were used to secure the rail tenons in the mortise on the legs.

The top was painted with black acrylic paint with a satin finish. The rails have rabbet cuts which holds the top. I sprayed the whole piece with three coats of satin Polycrylic, a water-based finish. The top now seems to absorb light; there is no reflection whatsoever.