Kitchen cabinet preparation

I've started a kitchen cabinet project and used Sketchup for my design. My requirement is for the cabinets to share walls. This is very different for typical kitchen cabinets where each cabinet is a complete box. Using this construction, multiple cabinets side-by-side means that there are two walls between each cabinet. Typically in furniture construction, cabinets would share a wall.

So what is the issue with this type of construction? At the top of the list is how to make and install it. A 101" wide series of cabinets made in the shop and then moved to a kitchen would be challenging. It is more modular to have a series of separate boxes and then screw them together as they are installed. Often these cabinets are frameless, otherwise the face frame will become very wide.

For this project, I plan to use recycled oak flooring. I started using flooring on a previous project. My reason is purely economic. Solid wood is expensive but reclaimed oak is $1.25 a square foot. A piece of flooring is shown on the left in this picture. After removing any nails or staples, I rip off the tongue on one side and the groove on the other. Since the flooring bottom is recessed in areas, I rip the bottom too for a flat surface. The final board is a little over 5/8" thick.

Sketchup has allow me to view the size proportions of the rails, stiles, drawers and cabinet walls without having to make a prototype or just live with the results. For this project I have a 1 ¼" wide wall. I use two flooring boards glued back-to-back to achieve this width. My tablesaw is the clamping surface and any warp that the flooring had is eliminated.

I plan to use sliding dovetails to hold a frame for the cabinet face and to connect the cabinets together. Preparing the flooring is taking a while but I'd rather save on the cost of wood.





This shows the face frame with a drawer and door opening made from cabinet-grade plywood which I had applied quarter-sawn white oak veneer. I will use veneer edging to cover the exposed inside edges. The piece of wood in the center shows a sample of the wood flooring. To cover the glue seam, I glued veneer and then rounded over the edges.

Finishing the Semi-Circle Table

After finishing the top, I wanted to carry the same design elements into the apron and legs. For the apron, I added a strip painted birch. I've been pleased with using Valspar in the past and the quantity of paint provided in a  sample size is more than enough for a small furniture project. I wanted to see whether I could spray it with my touch-up gun without diluting it with water and I successfully applied with using a 1.5mm nozzle.








Below the painted birch is another semi-circle of cherry which is was shaped with a bead profile. To conserve cherry, I glued a thin strip of it to plywood from a reclaimed cupboard door. Using 10 wedges, I calculated that my narrow ½" cherry scrap piece would be sufficient width to accommodate the curve and show the profile.

Similar to my previous table project, I've used reclaimed oak flooring to make the legs. After removing any nails from the wood, I glue several pieces together and use my router to cut the bead profile in the sides. I've sprayed a light brown dye stain on them, followed with shellac as a barrier coat. Finally, several coats of Polycrylic water-based finish was applied.

In order to use as much reclaimed wood as possible, I only have a thin strip of cherry on the profiled edge. Notice that the figured cherry veneer overlaps this and extends to the edge of the table.






Here is a close up picture of the ash center, cherry edging, and the oak legs.

Final View - Table Made From 99.9% Recycled Materials

I finished my hallway table using reclaimed oak flooring for the legs and an old cabinet door for the top. To show the flake pattern that is characteristic of quarter-sawn wood, I glued three flooring strips together and routed beads on one side. The beads hide the glue joints. On the top and bottom of the glued stack, I applied a quarter-sawn white oak veneer. This veneer and some dowel pins are the only non-recycled part of the project. The pins were used to secure the rail tenons in the mortise on the legs.

The top was painted with black acrylic paint with a satin finish. The rails have rabbet cuts which holds the top. I sprayed the whole piece with three coats of satin Polycrylic, a water-based finish. The top now seems to absorb light; there is no reflection whatsoever.

Creating Fine Furniture with Reclaimed Materials

I'm planning on entering a juried competition which requires using a reclaimed door to create a piece of art. Doors are apparently frequently discarded and many of them end in landfills. I'm considering constructing a hallway table using a portion of a solid-core front door for the table top and milling reclaimed oak flooring into trim apron rails and legs. My goal is to use 99% reclaimed materials (by weight) for this entry and I will be documenting my progress on this blog. Entrees aren't due until June so I think I have enough time.

Here is photo of reclaimed flooring that is left outside to the elements. Bundles are less than 10 square feet and priced at $1 per square foot. Apprehensively, I purchased a bundle of solid oak flooring and took it home.

Since I like to use veneer, beaded features, and mission style finish, I milled and finished a sample piece from the flooring I purchased. Shown on the far right, even after the beads were cut, the long grain patterns of the oak show due to its flat-grain. Preferring the shorter ray patterns from quarter-sawn wood, I've stacked and glued three pieces of flooring together (near right). This exposes the end grain, which is essentially what quarter-sawn wood shows. It's hard to tell from the picture, but the left piece is better.

Having figured out how to use the reclaimed flooring for the apron rails, the legs are next.