Preventing Glue Bleed-Through Veneer

This is the first time I've used sepele on a project. The problem I'm having is glue bleed through.The dark areas shown here are glue filling the wood's pores. This bleed-though is caused by the pores pulling the glue under the veneer through to the top surface. With oak, cherry and maple, I haven't had much of a problem. And usually if I see this issue, I can just sand it out. But I'm especially seeing this with sepele and sanding won't help.

Because I frequently use a water-based dye, I always use Titebond II for bonding veneer because it is water resistant and reduces delamination. Applying less glue may reduce bleed-through, but how much less before risking delamination?

I've even had issues after removing the veneer tape. After it look like it is completely removed, I'll dye the workpiece and then evidence of the tape adhesive reappears. I think it is the same issue as discussed before. The glue from the tape gets caught in the pores and you need to sand again and again. The problem, of course, is that you may sand all the way through the veneer.

I've been pleased with the results of sealing the back of the veneer to reduce glue bleed through by spraying one coat of Deft lacquer on the glue facing side of the veneer. On the top, I sprayed along the veneer seam before applying the veneer tape.

This stopped the veneer tape issues and considerably reduced the glue bleed-through, but some areas continued to appear. My second step is to soak up glue if it occurs. I lay sheets of brown masking paper between the veneer and the caul. This soaks up the glue to the veneer surface. When bleed-through is evident, light sanding is more successful because minimal glue remains in the pores.

With my glue bleed-through issues, I was originally thinking that this would be my last project with sepele. I'm please that this glue-up approach seems to be working so I can use sepele without worries next time.

Sliding Dovetail Update

For my kitchen cabinet project, I wanted to use a modular approach to installing cabinets. Typically each cabinet is standalone, and are bolted together as they are installed. This means that between the cabinets are two walls, the right side of the cabinet on the left and the left side of the cabinet on the right. In furniture cabinets, only one wall would be used. I'm using sliding dovetails to allow cabinets to be interconnected while sharing a common wall.

The final cabinet will consist of five interconnected cabinets. The center cabinet shown below will hide trash and recycle containers on a pull out shelf. I plan to install this cabinet into the kitchen and then connect additional cabinets by sliding their walls into the corners of the installed cabinet.

  

The jig that I described in my sliding dovetail blog entry is working well. The cabinet sides are square and secure and if I need to use my router table for something else, the jig allows me to replicate the precise positions necessary to duplicate a cut.

Mission Style Finishing

Quarter-sawn white oak veneer purchased from Certainly Wood is used on most of the exposed wood surfaces. The panel frames on the pull out drawer face were made from recycled oak flooring. To have a 1" wide frame, I've ripped and glued together two flooring pieces. A white oak veneer hides the glue seam. To strengthen this frame, I've inserted dowels (shown on the left) and then to hide them, I applied another piece of veneer (shown on right).

Since this blog is oriented to wood finishing, I wanted to discuss my revised Mission Style finishing treatment.
I do a lot of Mission Style finishing and have some recipes on my blog. Here are my NEW easiest steps, with most products available from your local big box store.

1. Sand the wood surface to 150 grit.
2. Use a very diluted water-based dye stain. It should look like a weak tea. This dye colors the wood but allows the rays and flakes to still be visible. Spray the dye if possible, otherwise flood the surface. For the dye, I use TransTint. It's in the jar on the left in this picture.
3. Let the dye dry thoroughly and then spray with an unwaxed shellac (Bulls Eye, next to the dye in the picture). This protects the dye from subsequent steps.
4. I use Minwax Gel Stain to highlight the grain and figure in the wood (third from the left). I mixed one part Mahogany to four parts Antique Maple to get the color I wanted. After a minute or so, wipe the stain off across the grain. This leaves stain in the grain.
5. This is important, let the stain completely dry overnight. And because it is still cold in my garage, I can't use a water-based finish. I sprayed four coats of satin lacquer from Deft for the finish. Each coat will magnify the wood patterns.

 The major new techniques in this project have been Sketchup and sliding dovetail joints. So far, I'm happy with both.

Semi-Circle Table Using Reclaimed Wood

I've started a new table project using reclaimed materials. I've glued maple veneer to a ¾" plywood cupboard door. It's flat, cabinet-grade wood with many layers of ply, and they sold it for $1. My plan is to create a border of cherry similar to my previous night stand project. The top will be a semi-circle and my plan is to show a band of poplar painted green around the side.







In my night stand, I used biscuits to align the edge of cherry to the top. The smaller radius in this project prevents the biscuit cutter from making a deep enough cut into the cherry. Instead of that approach, I've cut a 3/16" slot into both pieces. The roller bearing on the router bit allows me to follow the curved shape. This slot allows me to insert short splines to align the top and glue the pieces together.. To curve the spline inserts, I use the router circle jig to curve the spline inserts.


Before I glue the cherry piece on, I've applied a Minwax Honey Maple Gel Stain to accentuate the grain in the ash. I do this before gluing the edge to avoid getting the stain on the cherry. I'm waiting 8 hours for it to dry before proceeding.





Surrounding the semicircle is a border using figured cherry veneer. I plan on routing a bead profile along the edge of the table so I have glued a strip of cherry to plywood and then applied the veneer over this.

Before gluing the border of cherry, I use the inside curve of the piece as a template to cut the blue masking tape. I will use this with some parchment paper to cover the ash while I stain the cherry. Using a water based dye, I spray the border red. After it dries, I use the tape to mask the border and spray the ash using an amber colored dye.

To protect the table top from the water base finish, I sprayed the top with a fine film of shellac. Finally, I sprayed a couple coats of Polycrylic.

Next, on to the apron and legs.

Mission Style End Table with Slate, Part 1

I've wanted to integrate slate with wood and thought I'd share my progress on an end table that I've just started. I had a piece of plain sawn oak that I want to make more interesting. I glued quarter-sawn white oak veneer to it to make the top more interesting. I plan to apply the Mission Style finish that I described in an earlier posting.

Here is what it looks like after applying Mahogany gel stain. Notice that the grain pattern is now more visible because the pigment gets lodged into the pores. I'm going to let it dry over night and then sand off any stain on the wood surface while leaving the stain in the grain to accentuate the pattern.

After I sanded the stain with 220 grit, I sprayed on a brown water-based dye. To protect the dye from subsequent operations, I then sprayed with Bulls Eye Shellac. Now I'm ready to glue the plywood bottom for the slate and then insert the tile into the tabletop.

Toning for Accent

Its been too cold in the shop lately so I haven't done much finishing this month. I received a tile that a relative had made and used some scraps of cherry to make a frame for it. I routed a pair a beads on the edge and sprayed it with a water based red dye. I usually use a water based finish so to protect the dye, I sealed it with Bulls Eye Clear Shellac. Then I noticed that the beads didn't really stand out. It was only when they cast a shadow did they show well.

This gave me an idea to try toning to simulate a shadow. Toning is selectively applying stain over a finish to highlight some feature. Most articles about toning say you need to spray it but for my frame, I just wanted to apply a little dark stain on each side of the bead. I decided to try an artist marker of the shade I wanted. The product I used is called Prismacolor which is a dye in an alcohol solvent. Applying it on the shellac is a bad idea since it is alcohol based too. This time I needed to seal the shellac. Since it was still too cold to spray a water based finish, I sprayed a coat of lacquer which isn't very temperature sensitive. I then used the fine point edge of the marker and drew a line between the two beads and then on each side. I sprayed another coat of lacquer to seal the dye. It was just enough to get the beads to "pop out" in any lighting.

Night Stand

I wanted to show you what I did with the table top that was used to try different spraying techniques. The center of the top is ash veneer on plywood and the surrounding wood is a figured cherry veneer on plainsawn cherry. I ran out of cherry for the legs and was wondering how close I could match the color using poplar. I sprayed the same red dye as I had used on the cherry, then sealed it by spraying with clear shellac. Finally, I used a water-based finish. The whole finishing process took less than three hours of which two and half were waiting for the wood to dry.

The wood surface on the legs is a little rougher than I want. The water in the dye has caused some of the wood fibers to raise. I could have tried sanding it lightly after applying the shellac, but I was concerned about removing some of the stain. Next time I will first spray the wood with water and sand it smooth after it dries.

I'm please with the poplar and feel that I could have applied veneer over it on the table top and saved some money.

Cleaning a spray gun in 3 minutes

When I first investigated HVLP spray guns I was apprehensive about cleaning them. It sounded like you needed a fairly large project to justify the time and hassle of maintaining the gun. I have two gravity type guns, a full size one with a 20oz cup and another gun with a small 4oz cup intended for detail or repair work. The small gun is more than sufficient for 90% of my spraying jobs and the bonus is that I can clean it in less than 3 minutes.

So far, I'm have only used the small gun for spraying water-based dye and water-based finish. On my projects, I typically spray dye first and after it dries (usually in less than 30 minutes) I then spray Bulls Eye Clear Shellac to protect the dye from the water-based finish. While I could spray the shellac with gun, for most small projects, I use the Bulls Eye spray can. Finally I use the small gun to spray two coats of Minwax Polycrylic.

 Cleaning the Air Cap, Needle, Nozzle, Cup, and Gun body

These are the steps I take to clean my gun after using it to spray water-based dye and finish. I usually have a milk container filled with water and a plastic bowl that I clean over.

1. Remove the air hose from the sprayer
2. Pour left over dye or finish back into their containers.
3. Rinse out the cup several times with water.
4. Fill the cup with a couple ounces of water and pull the trigger until the dye or finish has drained and only water is being passed through the gun. You may want to back the needle off to make this faster.
5. Remove the air cap. Run some water over it to clean.
6. Remove the nozzle. Run some water through it from the back. Blow some air through it from your mouth. Looking through it from the back, verify that there are no obstructions.
7. Run some more water through the gun. This will clean the cavity in the gun body.
8. Whip the cup dry with a paper towel. Sometimes you may see a residual color on the cup from the dye. Dampen a paper towel with alcohol and whip the color off.

Table Top Re-visited

Finished Table Top

I wanted to apply the technique I previously posted to this table top. Two wood veneers have been used, ash and figured cherry. I wanted to dye stain the ash a light brown color and the cherry red. I spray the dye to get uniform coverage. The challenge is controlling the spray so that it doesn't stain the wrong wood. I accomplish this by masking the wood, just as you would when painting.

To highlight the grain of the ash, I first applied a gel stain. Details about this are in a previous post. The next step is masking the ash with tape and then spraying the surrounding cherry with a red dye. I use water-based dyes made using Homestead's TransTint. Straight lines are easy to tape but the curve looked to be difficult.

Luckily, I had cut another curved section to help glue the top together. I used this as a template for cutting the tape with a knife. This made taping the curved sections easy.

I covered the remainder center of the taped section and then sprayed the red dye on the cherry. I remove the tape immediately so that there would be less chance of the red dye soaking under the tape. As I discuss in my previous post, spraying a mist of dye makes it dry immediately. After the dye completely dried, I applied tape over the cherry and sprayed the ash with a brown dye.

I again removed the tape immediately, and after the ash dried, I sprayed a light coat of shellac to protect the dye from the water-based finish. The final step was to spray the Minwax Polycrylic and then I was done. The top photo shows the finished top.

Dye Staining Update

Sample board with two stains

When using several wood species in a project, different colored dye stains may be required. I needed to do this for a tabletop that was ash surrounded by cherry. It would have been easy to stain each wood before gluing. When touching the tabletop, I didn't want any bump between the ash and the cherry. This meant that I may have to sand the bump but then the stain that was applied would be destroyed. I chose to stain the wood after gluing.

Staining two areas side by side is a challenge. My earlier post suggested using tape to mask areas not to be stained. This seems to work however if the sprayed dye is too wet, it can seep under the tape, as shown in the circles here.

I decided to do another spray test. For my test board, I've taken veneered ash and cut it into three pieces. I glued two pieces on the right together with the grain running the same direction. The piece on the left was rotated 90 degrees and glued. The image at top shows the sample board.

My goal is to stain the middle section brown and the sides red. I like to spray dye for consistent results as I described in a previous post. To keep the dye from seeping under the tape, the spray gun was adjusted to create a very light mist. This mist doesn't even form drops on the wood surface and it dries quickly within minutes. To get a darker shade of stain, just spray it again. If needed, dampen a small section of the stained wood with mineral spirits or naphtha to see what shade the stain will have when covered by a finish.

I was able to get a light mist on my HVLP gun by using a 0.8mm nozzle, adjusting the needle so that only a small amount of dye would get atomized, and using just enough air pressure for atomization. After achieving the shade that I wanted on the middle section, I sprayed it with Bulls Eye Clear Shellac. To save time, I just use their can of spray for small projects.

On my previous post, I had said the shellac will effectively mask the wood from the application of the second dye. After further experimentation, I have decided that I can't recommend doing this. A slight tint from the second dye remains on the shellac. On this sample, I used tape to mask the middle section and using the red dye, I repeat my light mist spraying on the exposed wood. When done, spray with shellac, and after removing the tape, lightly spray the shellac again along where the edge of the tape was. This ensures the dye is completely protected from the water-based finish.

Mission Style Finish Recipe

My computer desk

I'm really attracted to the Mission Style finish. The character of the wood is really highlighted by this stain treatment. I use quarter-sawn white oak, the traditional wood used in mission style furniture. Cutting wood quarter-sawn reveals an immense pattern of rays and flakes in oak. Their undulating pattern is accentuated by a pigment stain. An additional dye stain gives the wood your desired shade of brown. Traditionally, staining the wood was performed by exposing it to strong ammonia fumes. I tried this once and became the least favorite member of the family.

Over many years, I have created a multiple step process that works reliably. As I have said in previous posts, I tend to use veneer. It is much more affordable and available than solid wood. I purchase my veneer online from Certainly Wood.

Here are the steps and an explanation of why are done.

1. Sand the wood surface until you reach 180 grit. There is no reason to go finer.
2. The pattern in the wood is highlighted by creating contrast between the grain and the wood surface. I use a Mahogany colored Minwax Gel Stain to embed a dark pigment in the grain. Use a disposable glove and spread clumps of stain on the wood. Almost immediately, take paper towels and remove the excess stain on the wood surface by wiping across the grain. This leaves the pigment in the grain and leaves the wood surface almost the same color as what you started with.
3. Let the gel stain dry for 8 hours or until it's solvent can't be smelled.
4. Preferably using an orbital sander, use 220 grit sandpaper to remove the stain color from the wood surface. The pigment stain will remain in the grain which is below the surface. You want to color the surface with the water-based dye stain. I like to use Homestead's TransTint. They have many brown shades located here.
5. Apply a dye stain either by spraying or wiping it on the surface. Spraying is faster but I've wiped it on for many years. I pore a little on and spread it lightly with a 3M maroon colored Scotch-brite pad. You want the get the surface universally wet with thin film of dye. Let the dye dry without wiping it off. This will give it a uniform appearance, as long as you didn't leave puddles of dye liquid on the wood.
6. The dye usually drys within a hour. Spray it with Bulls Eye Clear Shellac to protect the dye from later steps.
7. After the shellac drys (usually in minutes), feel the surface for smoothness. Sometimes the water in the dye will raise the wood fibers. Lightly sand them off using a maroon pad. Don't bare down which may remove the stain.
8. Now you are ready for a finish to protect the wood and the stain. The shellac you applied will protect the stains from most finish treatments. I like to use a water-based satin finish. The satin sheen lowers any glare from light reflecting from the wood surface which obscures the grain. I use Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish. I'll spray Polycrylic deluded 10% with distilled water. Deluding it makes it easier to spray. Let it dry for several hours and feel if the surface is smooth. If so, spray it one more time and you are done. If its a little rough, wait overnight and sand the surface lightly with 220 grit sandpaper, just enough to remove the rough spots. Spray it again, and then you are done.

I'm sure this seems like many steps but the end product is worth the effort.

Staining two different wood species

A sign of fine woodworking is pairing several wood species together in a project. Here I am making a tabletop using two veneers, ash and cherry. The challenge I frequently have is getting the two different species to be exactly flush. There should be no bump when running your finger across the glue line. I typically use a biscuit joiner to align the tops before gluing, but the finger is sensitive to any bump. I've come to the conclusion that I have to allow for light sanding. But this will prevent me from staining the pieces before glue up.

To accent the pores in the ash, I have applied Minwax Gel Stain Honey Maple. Using a paper towel, I wipe the gel off across the grain. This leaves the colored stain in the pores. Lightly sand the ash using 180 grit sandpaper after the stain has dried. If you can smell the solvent from the stain, then it's still drying. The ash will be dyed after glue up.

After gluing the pieces together, I lightly sand the surface with 180 grit to make the top perfectly smooth. The ash needs to be dyed a light brown and the cherry a light red. I use water based dyes made using Homestead's TransTint. The problem is keeping the dyes from staining the wrong species. I masked the cherry with tape and sprayed the ash with the dye and after it dried, I sprayed a thin coat of Bulls Eye Clear Shellac.

The tape did a great job of protecting the cherry from being dyed. Next I need to apply the red dye. Rather than having to cover the ash with tape, the shellac will prevent the red dye from being absorbed. See how it beads up on the ash. Simply wipe it up with a paper towel.

Let the red dye dry and spray it with shellac. Even after the dye has dried, a water based finish can ruin it, so the shellac creates a barrier between the two. Finally, spray a coat of Minwax Polycrylic on the surface. Let it dry for several hours and run your hand across the surface. Any small bumps can be leveled using a 3M gray colored Scotch-Brite ultra fine pad.

One more coat of Polycrylic and then you have a smooth table top you can be proud of.