Kitchen cabinet preparation

I've started a kitchen cabinet project and used Sketchup for my design. My requirement is for the cabinets to share walls. This is very different for typical kitchen cabinets where each cabinet is a complete box. Using this construction, multiple cabinets side-by-side means that there are two walls between each cabinet. Typically in furniture construction, cabinets would share a wall.

So what is the issue with this type of construction? At the top of the list is how to make and install it. A 101" wide series of cabinets made in the shop and then moved to a kitchen would be challenging. It is more modular to have a series of separate boxes and then screw them together as they are installed. Often these cabinets are frameless, otherwise the face frame will become very wide.

For this project, I plan to use recycled oak flooring. I started using flooring on a previous project. My reason is purely economic. Solid wood is expensive but reclaimed oak is $1.25 a square foot. A piece of flooring is shown on the left in this picture. After removing any nails or staples, I rip off the tongue on one side and the groove on the other. Since the flooring bottom is recessed in areas, I rip the bottom too for a flat surface. The final board is a little over 5/8" thick.

Sketchup has allow me to view the size proportions of the rails, stiles, drawers and cabinet walls without having to make a prototype or just live with the results. For this project I have a 1 ¼" wide wall. I use two flooring boards glued back-to-back to achieve this width. My tablesaw is the clamping surface and any warp that the flooring had is eliminated.

I plan to use sliding dovetails to hold a frame for the cabinet face and to connect the cabinets together. Preparing the flooring is taking a while but I'd rather save on the cost of wood.





This shows the face frame with a drawer and door opening made from cabinet-grade plywood which I had applied quarter-sawn white oak veneer. I will use veneer edging to cover the exposed inside edges. The piece of wood in the center shows a sample of the wood flooring. To cover the glue seam, I glued veneer and then rounded over the edges.

Applying Adhesive Veneer Edging

Using adhesive veneer edging can be an easy repair or essential part of project. Although purists may frown on edging, I find that it can be used imperceptibly to most people. Most veneer edging is thick enough to resist physical abuse. And it is real wood, so stains apply easily.

Applying Adhesive Edging

Adhesive veneer is typically about 1/16" thick and backed with a heat sensitive adhesive backing. Many of the usual hardwoods are sold: cherry, oak, birch, walnut, and mahogany and widths range from ¾" to wider. An iron melts the adhesive backing to adhere the edging. I like to use this small and economical iron. Just using scissors, cut a length of veneer slightly longer than the edge being covered.

Trimming Adhesive Edging

In my experience, trimming the edging can be a challenge. Depending on grain direction, tear out can occur when cutting it. I've used a router bit with a bearing for cutting flush trim cuts and still have had problems. Through trial and error I've come up with the following techniques.

On the ends, I just align a chisel against the work piece and cut the overhanging edging off.

 
When trimming the sides, the grain direction can be frustrating. For reliable results, I use the blade from my plane to cut the sides of the edging. I rest part of the blade on the side of work piece and cut the overhanging veneer at an angle. I rotate the blade clockwise and cut off a small length, then move the blade to the left and repeat the process. This scissor-like action seems to handle difficult grain direction. I usually start from the middle and work towards the end of the veneer.

After trimming the overhang, I usually run the iron at a slight angle to seal the edges to the work piece again. Then I lightly sand the edge of the veneer for a slight round over. After applying finish to the piece, its difficult to know that veneer was used.

Veneer Gaps After Dyeing

Occasionally after applying a water-base dye, the veneer may separate from the substrate. Look for this before a finish or lacquer is applied. Just use the iron to reattach the veneer. Heating a finish will destroy it, so reattach the veneer before applying the finish.

 

Holding Cabinet Doors Closed Magnetically

Holding doors closed using magnets is easy compared to mechanical latching systems or special hinges. Simply, the door is held close using a small rare-earth magnet embedded in the frame. Another magnet or metal dowel is embedded in the door. When the door is closed, magnetic attraction keeps the door closed. A gentle pull on the door will break the attraction and allow the door to open freely.

Sounds easy, but what are the details? I find that a ¼" diameter magnetic is sufficient and I simply drill a ¼" hole and insert the magnet. To ensure the face of the door is flush to the frame, the magnets should be positioned the same distance from the front of the cabinet. To hide the magic of the magnet, I apply veneer hot-melt edging over the magnet.

For this door I embedded a short metal dowel in the door. It is located just under the handle on the edge of the door and covered by veneer. The video shows the closing of the door. The narrow gaps between the door and the frame cause an air cushion that slows the closing of the door. When the metal dowel gets within the proximity of the magnet, the door is pulled close.