Progress on my Hallway Table using Reclaimed Wood

Just an update on my Bold Doors entry. I've assembled and glued the legs to the aprons rails using mortise and tenon joints. On a previous post, I discussed how applying gel stain which highlights the grain. Using 150 grit sandpaper, I removed the stain from the wood surface and then sprayed with a light brown water-base TransTint dye. I use my small touch-up gun with a 0.8mm nozzle. This is my favorite spray gun because its so easy to clean.

The rails have a ¼" rabbet cut to hold the tabletop made from a reclaimed cupboard door. Using a door is a requirement of the competition. I want this wood insert to be colored black so I paint it first before I install it in the oak rail frame. There was one hole and some dents that needed to be filled. After sanding it enough to remove some of the polyurethane finish, I filled the recessed areas with drywall joint compound (Even Jeff Jewitt, wood finishing author, says he does this). Drywall compound creates a very smooth surface and its easy to sand. To create a good bonding surface for the acrylic black paint, I sprayed the surface with Zinsser BIN Primer. This is a shellac-based primer that bonds to anything. This will be the magnet that holds the acrylic paint to the door's existing polyurethane finish.

I've painted this piece black with a small amount of Valspar acrylic paint. This sample quantity from Lowes is all I need, so this was cost effective. Everything I've read says it is difficult (or not recommended) to spray acrylic from a HVLP gun using a small compressor. I've sprayed acrylic successfully using my full size 20oz capacity gravity gun with a 2.0mm nozzle, but it takes longer to clean the gun than my touch-up gun.  As an experiment, I tried the touch-up gun using a 1.5mm nozzle. As Jeff recommends, I've diluted the Valspar with 10% water.
It works! I wouldn't want to spray a whole room like this, but the touch-up gun is working fine for a small piece.

Next: install the black tabletop and apply a water-based finish.

Creating My Table With Reclaimed Flooring

I officially entered the Bold Doors competition. This competition is all about artistic expression using reclaimed materials. The requirement is that the entry must incorporate a reclaimed door. Some of the examples on their site show doors decorated in various ways, but since the entries will be displayed at local business, their guidance is to think small. My thought is to build a hallway table using reclaimed oak floors for the legs and a door for the top. My goal is for it to be 99% reclaimed wood.

Here are my materials, about 12 square feet of oak flooring and a cupboard door made from ¾" plywood. I carefully remove the nails and staples from the flooring pieces and rip the pieces thick enough to allow two ¼" diameter beads to be cut along the edge. Three boards glued together will provide space for six beads and any seam from gluing the pieces will be hidden between rows of beads.

I plan to use my Mission Style stain technique which will highlight interesting grain patterns in the oak. The plain sawn flooring has long grain patterns that aren't attractive - at least to me. Looking at the side of the wood flooring, the end grain pattern has short flake and ray patterns that are the hallmark of Arts & Crafts furniture. I've glued a piece of quarter-sawn piece veneer to what was the surface of the floor in order to cover the boring long grain.

Here I show a table leg with beads cut on a router table. I start applying the stain finish before construction because its easier to sand. The first step is to use a Mahogany Gel Stain. I wipe the stain off across the grain in order to leave the pigment in the grain. After 24 hours, I use a 150 grit sandpaper and sand off most of the color leaving the pigment in the grain. It will look much better after spraying with a dye stain. Next step, cutting mortise and tenon joints for constructing the table.

Creating Fine Furniture with Reclaimed Materials

I'm planning on entering a juried competition which requires using a reclaimed door to create a piece of art. Doors are apparently frequently discarded and many of them end in landfills. I'm considering constructing a hallway table using a portion of a solid-core front door for the table top and milling reclaimed oak flooring into trim apron rails and legs. My goal is to use 99% reclaimed materials (by weight) for this entry and I will be documenting my progress on this blog. Entrees aren't due until June so I think I have enough time.

Here is photo of reclaimed flooring that is left outside to the elements. Bundles are less than 10 square feet and priced at $1 per square foot. Apprehensively, I purchased a bundle of solid oak flooring and took it home.

Since I like to use veneer, beaded features, and mission style finish, I milled and finished a sample piece from the flooring I purchased. Shown on the far right, even after the beads were cut, the long grain patterns of the oak show due to its flat-grain. Preferring the shorter ray patterns from quarter-sawn wood, I've stacked and glued three pieces of flooring together (near right). This exposes the end grain, which is essentially what quarter-sawn wood shows. It's hard to tell from the picture, but the left piece is better.

Having figured out how to use the reclaimed flooring for the apron rails, the legs are next.

Mission Style End Table with Marble, Finished

I just completed the end table and change the embedded stone from slate to marble. The slate was too bumpy and heavy for a table top and it even showed minor scratches. Marble isn't my favorite but I can get attractive 12" x 18" tiles for $8. The top is constructed from quarter-sawn white oak veneered on red oak. Red oak is readily available from my local Lowes store. After staining, you can't tell the difference in the species of oak.

Here is a view from the top showing the final construction of the curved sides. I was worried that they might flex easily but that has not been the case. It's easy to miss that they are curved. I think this is a design issue because there isn't anything straight to highlight the curve. Perhaps it would have helped if the sides were flush to the curved top.

Finishing only took two days. The first day to apply gel stain to emphasize the grain. The following day I lightly sanded the oak leaving the stain in the grain, and then sprayed it with a brown water-based dye. After it dried, I used a spray can of Deft satin lacquer to finish the project.

Mission Style End Table with Slate, Part 3

Here is an update on the end table project. The complex part are the curved sides which bow out slightly from each side to match the curve of the top. The picture at right shows the bottom of the table with a coat of gel stain that fills the grain of the oak. I'm following my Mission Style finish recipe that I blogged about earlier. After the stain dries, I'll sand it and then spray a brown dye.

Economy and Reduced Complexity

Using solid quarter-sawn white oak would have been costly and showing flake on all four sides of the legs would have been difficult. This project almost entirely uses veneer. The core of the legs is ¾" plywood with ¼" MDF sandwiched between them. Quarter-sawn white oak veneer is glued to all four sides.

Enabling the Curved Sides

To create the bowed sides, I've cut a 15° slot into the sides of the legs. I don't want the curve all the way to the floor, so the challenge is only having the slot partially down the leg. Veneer allows me to cover the slot on bottom part of the leg. I sawed the slot the entire length of the leg, then filled the slot with filler where it wasn't required. Veneer was glued over the top and I exposed the slot again with a small diameter router bit on my router table.